More Morsels: Beard Papa cream puffs come to Bay Area

San Jose Mercury News
By Carolyn Jung
May 17, 2006

I can't eat that now. I'm going to dinner in an hour.

Those in the know will be licking their lips at the news that Beard Papa, the Japanese cream puff bakery with a cult following that rivals Krispy Kreme's in its heyday, has finally opened in Northern California.

The Bay Area's first Beard Papa opened last week in San Francisco at 99 Yerba Buena Lane, a pedestrian lane that runs from Market to Mission streets between Third and Fourth streets.

Why such a fuss over cream puffs? Because Beard Papa's are worth the commotion. Forget the tasteless, soggy ones you've had elsewhere that were more looks than taste. Lighter, flakier and not too sweet, Beard Papa's cream puffs feature a unique shell made from two types of dough. The exterior is crisp like pie crust, and the interior is a traditional airy choux pastry. The puffs are filled to order with a rich blend of house-made custard and whipped cream flavored with Madagascar vanilla beans. Specialty filling flavors, which change daily, include chocolate, green tea and milk tea.

The first Beard Papa in the United States opened on New York's Upper West Side two years ago to lines that circled the block. And it was then that the cream puff became the bane of my existence. You see, I happened to be visiting New York a month after the opening. I had just gotten off the subway when I spied a line in front of a shop. Beard what? I had never heard of it before. When I realized it was cream puffs, I was curious but thought, 'I can't eat that now. I'm going to dinner in an hour.'

What a dope!

Months later, Bay Area friends returning from New York vacations couldn't stop talking about Beard Papa cream puffs. One friend seriously considered flying back to New York for a weekend -- just for another cream puff.

Last month, I finally got a chance to try some at a Beard Papa in Hollywood. And I can attest that the $1.75 cream puffs are indeed all they are cracked up to be, and then some. What hit me most was the sheer freshness of the product and the dreamy interplay of crispy, doughy and creamy in my mouth.

Beard Papa is a subsidiary of Muginoho, an Osaka-based restaurant chain with more than 250 outposts in Japan, and stores in New York, New Jersey, Southern California, Massachusetts and Hawaii. Beard Papa's Northern California franchisers hope to open a total of six locations here. In August, one will open in Redwood City at the On Broadway shopping center, 835 Middlefield Road; and in September, a second San Francisco store will open only blocks away from the first one at the new Bloomingdale's shopping center on Market Street in San Francisco. No word yet on any South Bay locations.

The Yerba Buena Lane Beard Papa is open daily. For more information, call (415) 978-9972 or go to www.muginohousa. com/index.html or to www. beardpapasf.com.

And let this be a lesson. If you ever see a long line for a baked good, don't think twice. For gosh sakes, just get in it.

CHOCOHOLICS TAKE NOTE: The divine Charles Chocolates of Emeryville invites chocoholics to its temporary store, open only through May 27 at 3527 California St. in San Francisco's Laurel Village; (415) 751-1958. This Saturday, as well as May 27, the store will feature special focused tastings. This Saturday, it's fleur de sel caramels; next Saturday, it's peanut butterflies, made with heavenly peanut praline.

Owner Chuck Siegel started Attivo Confections chocolate company in San Francisco when he was 25, selling gourmet s'mores and giant Granny Smith apples dipped in caramel, nuts and chocolate. He started Charles Chocolates in 2004, crafting candies made with organic herbs, as well as organic cream and butter from Marin County's Straus Family Creamery. Everything is made by hand in small batches.

The pa^te de fruit jellies (in blood orange, white peach, grapefruit, and passion fruit) contain at least 45 percent real fruit, making them taste more like the real deal than mere sugary candy. A box of 25 pieces is $25. A half-pound box of assorted chocolates ($27) contains such irresistible delights as Poire William milk chocolate caramel, Earl Grey truffle, and Mojito Heart (mint-infused lime ganache with a splash of dark rum, all encased in bittersweet chocolate).

If you can't make it to the store before it closes, you'll be glad to know Charles Chocolates also are available at www.charleschocolates.com or by calling (510) 652-4412.